Writing about wine is sort of like being a doctor. Well, in some ways. OK, really only in one way — when people find out what you do, they often pepper you with questions about your work or solicit advice. In the case of a wine writer, it’s typically something along the lines of: What’s your favourite wine? What’s the best-value wine?
For the latter question, it’s easy enough to rattle off the names of a stalwart good-bang-for-the-buck wines. But I usually tiptoe around the former question about a "favourite wine" with some sort of diplomatic answer — something along the lines of "Well, I’m always trying new things for the column" or "It depends on what I’m in the mood for/what I’m eating/on the weather," and so on.
But make me pick a favourite grape variety under threat of… well, something bad, and it wouldn’t be that tough — I’d pick Syrah (also known as Shiraz). It’s the one grape variety I seek out most often when left to my own devices. Why? Read on…
Compatibility with food. In addition to the typical big cherry and blackberry flavours that Syrah often delivers, the grape often imparts savoury olive, smoky and meaty notes, and a peppery edge to boot — especially in Old World or cooler-climate examples. Those characteristics means Syrah can work well with stronger flavours found in game (venison, boar, etc.) as well as with lamb. New World/warmer-climate examples that are made in more of a fruit-forward style, meanwhile, tend to work well with plenty of everyday fare such as burgers, ribs and pizza.
Quality-to-price ratio. Sure, there are plenty of great-value wines made from all manner of grapes (and, conversely, some pricy ultra-premium Syrah from the northern Rhône Valley, Barossa/McLaren Vale in Australia, California and such), but pound for pound Syrah/Shiraz is the grape variety that delivers the best bang for your buck in the under-$20 category. (Spanish/Portuguese reds also excel at delivering great value at this price, but they’re typically blends.) South African Shiraz is consistantly solid, Chilean Syrah is criminally underrated and, of course, there are the abundant Aussie examples.
Versatility. Practically every wine-producing region on Earth is making at least a little bit of Syrah/Shiraz — from cool-climate New Zealand vineyards to red-hot Paso Robles in California and everywhere in between. Syrah’s ability to excel in a wide range of climates, perhaps more than any other grape, means the finished product reflects the differences that climate and soil can impart in a wine while still retaining the grape’s core flavour characteristics that are unmistakably Syrah.
Blendability. (Is that a word? Unlikely.) While Syrah/Shiraz is usually great on its own, the grape also excels when blended with other varieties. Producers in the southern Rhône Valley have long been blending Syrah with Grenache, Mourvèdre and other red grapes for rustic, delicious reds, while Australian producers often blend Shiraz with Cabernet Sauvignon with impressive results. Many producers even cut their Syrah/Shiraz with a small percentage of Viognier, a white wine grape that actually intensifies the colour, aromas and texture of Syrah in a deliciously fascinating way.
So there you go — Syrah/Shiraz, this wine writer’s favourite grape. Until next week when, you know, it’s Chardonnay. Or Cabernet Sauvignon. Or Tempranillo. Or Pinot Noir. Or Malbec.
Wines of the week
Tilimuqui 2019 Shiraz Rosé (Argentina — $12.67, Liquor Marts and beyond)
Pale pink in colour, this organic, fair-trade Argentine rosé offers pleasant strawberry, peach, tangerine and floral notes on the nose. It’s an off-dry, light-bodied pink wine that offers simple red berry and stone fruit flavours that are fresh and fun, with just a splash of acidity on the finish. A decent value. 2.5/5
Fairview 2015 Shiraz (Coastal region, South Africa — $19.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
This older-vintage Shiraz is garnet in colour with brick edges in appearance. Aromatically, it brings black cherry, plum, violet, vanilla and hints of smoke and pepper. It’s full-bodied and chewy, with a decent amount of black cherry and plum, some grippy black pepper, black tea and spice notes, medium tannin and a vanilla note on the long finish, thanks to 12 months in French and American oak barrels. Good character for the price. 4/5
Yalumba 2018 Organic Shiraz (South Australia — $16.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
This Aussie Shiraz explodes with jammy black cherry, blackberry, iron, plum and red licorice aromas. It’s medium-plus bodied and on the palate offers all manner of ripe dark berry notes with hints of meaty, smoky notes and some chalkiness before the light tannins and medium finish. A fantastic value — a fruit-forward example of the grape that never gets overripe or flabby. 4/5
Sandhill 2018 Syrah (British Columbia — $21.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
Made with fruit sourced from both the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys, this B.C. Syrah brings a herbal note along with the tart cherry, raspberry, red licorice, smoke and white pepper notes. It’s dry and full-bodied, with an almost-sweet cherry core that comes with plum, raspberry and licorice flavours, underlying herbal/mocha/slightly smoky notes, modest tannins and a relatively long, warm finish. 4/5
Pirramimma 2018 1892 Shiraz (McLaren Vale, Australia — around $26, private wine stores)
Black cherry, tar, plum, cedar and raspberry notes on the nose come with just a hint of smoke. It’s full-bodied and dry, with a punch of deep cherry and red berry flavours delivered with sinewy tannins and a vanilla and spice note that lingers on the long, warm finish (alcohol is listed as 14.5 on the label, but it’s probably a touch higher). Let this sit in a glass for half an hour to open up/mellow out, or put it away for 2 to 3 years to let things calm down. Found at De Luca Fine Wines. 3.5/5
uncorked@mts.net
Twitter: @bensigurdson
Ben Sigurdson
Literary editor, drinks writer
Ben Sigurdson edits the Free Press books section, and also writes about wine, beer and spirits.
March 20, 2021 at 03:00PM
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Tough to pick greatest grape, but here goes… - Winnipeg Free Press
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