I hope everyone had an enjoyable holiday season and we all can certainly hope that 2021 will be a better year than 2020, sort of can’t be worse. Last month we discussed the big red, cabernet sauvignon and how it is blended into so many wines and is the primary grape in most Bordeaux wines. Well, it is still winter and our diets haven’t changed but our choices in wine continue to expand. So this month I thought it would be appropriate to discuss two blends I thoroughly enjoy, that being GSM and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
GSM is an acronym for grenache, syrah and mourvèdre. Grenache is the lightest of the three grapes adding a candied fruit component, dark spices with syrah being a bolder grape contributing dark fruit aromas at times a smoky aroma and mourvèdre being the boldest used to add tannin structure to the wine. By adjusting the blend the winemaker can create a style they desire, lighter or heavier in weight, alcohol levels, tannin levels, acidity, fruit, spice and so on. GSM is made all around the world; France, USA, Australia and Spain along with many other parts. But the two areas I would like to focus on are the Côtes du Rhone region of France and the Barossa Valley of South Australia. There are 19 different grapes in the Côte du Rhône region, which is home to the classic, well-known blend, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which uses 13 varietals for its blend. I use Châteauneuf-du-Pape in this article as it is primarily made from the GSM grapes with the remaining wines used in a very small percentage. The Rhône region is a hot climate and Barossa is also very warm and this climate contributes to the bold, fruity flavor of this blend.
More: WINE PRESS: Make the season festive with cabernet sauvignon
The foods to pair with these wines are pretty much no seafood, as they will totally overpower the food unless it is a very rich dish — all rules are made to be broken — so let’s talk the obvious after no seafood. Grilled meats are at the top of the list and for me, wild boar would make my day. Obviously, grilled ribeye will fall into that group as well as grilled sausage or even meatloaf. This time of year you will see on some restaurant menus beef bourguignon or any braised red meats as well as cassoulet — the ultimate comfort food — these are matches made in heaven. As the popularity of Hispanic foods continues to rise, chili con carne is in the mix, perfect for watching Brady on Sunday! These wines will also work with charcuterie and as for cheese, Époisse, Cheddar, Manchego and, smoked Gouda are all great choices. Vegans can enjoy these wines as well, but the dishes will need cheese to supply the fat needed for the dish to hold up to the wine.
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Producers are many, both in France and Australia. Châteauneuf-du-Pape has many producers, but to me the benchmark producer is from the Famille Perrin, that being Château de Beaucastel. It comes with a steep price, around $95, but well worth it. I was lucky enough to find a 2006 at $112 to take to my friend’s house for New Year’s Eve, as I knew he was preparing a lamb dinner — superb. Two great producers are Château Rayas and Domaine Vieux Télégraphe which round out the big three, prices vary on your choice. Chateau de St. Cosme is another favorite producer of mine costing around $45. As for Australia, Rosemount was always a favorite of mine at about $30, we used to pour it at Castle Hill many years ago, it was quite popular and delicious. One of my favorite wineries from down under is the solid Penfolds and their GSM is called Bin 138, about $40.
As you can see, this time of year calls for red wines and hearty dishes and GSM’s will do the trick. Talk to your retailer if you don’t see one and again, ask if he will bring one in if they don’t have one. By the way, Paso Robles in California and Columbia Valley in Washington are also producing some great examples of GSM wines.
Now comes the time for my public service announcement: I urge all to support our precious restaurant industry and small businesses. As most of you know, many island restaurants typically close in January and reopen around St. Patrick’s Day(when the lockdown began last year, ugh), so the compression helps those that are still open. I have talked to many in the industry and they are somewhat optimistic as it seems people are getting out more. And finally, Congress acted so money is on the way just in time. With the arrival of vaccines, hope springs eternal! Remember, if you aren’t comfortable dining-in, curbside takeout or delivery are viable options as those options saved a lot of stores during the shutdown! And don’t forget gift certificates, they help as well.
Above all to everyone, be safe, follow all the guidelines and pray this scourge ends sooner, rather than later!!
Len Panaggio is a wine consultant and former corporate beverage director for Newport Harbor Corp. Send feedback and suggestions to lcp23223@gmail.com. The Wine Press runs each month in The Daily News and online at newportri.com.
The Link LonkJanuary 24, 2021 at 01:00AM
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WINE PRESS: Finding the right blend for winter wines - newportri.com
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